Lightroom does it with just two sliders and the Tone Curve. OK for just one image, but when I have to do it for much of a morning’s shoot, I become bored and look for alternatives. I find all the ‘workarounds’, for DXO to recover highlights simply adding unneccesary steps to a work flow. Just have to wait and see what the new year brings. The Smart Light feature has next to no effect on the areas in question, and I suspect, but don’t know for sure, that it mostly wants to be a ‘shadows’ slider. I’ve contacted Tech Support, but have to say that their reply didn’t really offer any workable results. I’ve used Nik tools since the very beginning, and hoped that DXO would offer a better workflow for me, but at this stage, I only use it for occassinal images, and then send back to Lr. Giving me a darker result, but I figured that Prime would handle the noise factor (which it does, but I still get the niggly white areas) I’ve even changed my exposure method to drop the exposure by around 1 to 1.5 stops. Now I am partly happy to put the end result down to perhaps my inexperience with the program, but a quick tug on the Tone Curve in DXO has nowhere near the ability that I find in Lr. Yet, in Fast Raw Viewer, it shows that the percentage on the NEF is somewhere down in the 2-3% and therefore readily retrieveable. There is always a little area of white, that just 'bounces back as pure white". It is the however the sort of result (perhaps not quite that over-emphaised), when I am trying to seperate white and black feather detail in DXO. The advantage is absolutely no vignetting and edge to edge landscapes.I wasn’t so fussed about your psuedo HDR result- I did grasp what you were trying to show. Yes, I’m using an expensive full frame lens on an APS-C body. These images are shot on the spectacular (for daytime work) Sony Zeiss FE 2.8/35mm on the Sony NEX 5T. I’ll find out soon as I’ll have a Sony A7S and a Sony A6000 in to test soon. I’m not sure if Sony has fixed this simple software issue. 7x zoom (this could be 3x, 5x, 8x, 10x).What’s really necessary are two steps with the zoom level customisable. Having to cycle through three states made even image zoom useless for live action photography. What didn’t work is that image zoom had three steps: Image zoom for focus did work on the Sony A7 and on my Sony NEX 5T. The only really useful focus tool is then image zoom. On my Canon 5D Mark III with Magic Lantern firmware the image peaking also didn’t really work. There’s no camera on which focus peaking really works. It’s nice to know we can stop blaming Sony and accept the limits of focus peaking. Poor quality focus peaking affects a lot of cameras like Sony A7, A7S, A7R or NEX 5T, NEX 6, NEX 7 or A5100, A6000, A6300, A6500. The issue is not that Sony’s implementation of focus peaking is so broken (as I originally though). Here’s an image which focus peaking, both fine detail and high contrast edges, says is sharp in the critical area and even into the background. Among many great features, FRW lets you preview focus peaking on your existing images with both fine detail focus peaking and high contrast edges focus peaking. With a fast drive (SSD), it’s almost like browsing jpegs. FRW lets you view the nitty gritty of your images straight from the RAW file fast. There’s a great image development application for photographers who shoot RAW called Fast Raw Viewer. I could never really get focus peaking to work well enough. When focus peaking first appeared on the Sony A7, I thought my issues with focus on manual lenses were solved. Not particularly good for catching special moments. Yes, those focus screens do get you into the ball park but if you want to be sure of a sharp picture at wide aperture you have to focus bracket with about four pictures. I tried every kind of special focus screen for my Canon 5D (the 5D Mk III doesn’t allow special focus screens) but none of them were accurate enough. I have some nice Leica R (wide Leica R is much better on mirrorless than Leica M as it doesn’t distort around the edged), Nikon and even a drawer full of Pentax lenses. A precision mechanical instrument, not video game controls. It’s what taking pictures is really about. The metal, the smooth mechanical focus motion.
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